I Love Portland Maine

It’s in Maine to start with, so that gives it a distinct advantage (“The Way Life Should Be” – it says it on the sign, it must be true. The government would never lie, would they?). The surrounding area is beautiful, unless you hate ocean views, lighthouses and rocky shorelines. Foodies come from all over for the restaurants. There are more breweries than I can keep track of, and I’m pretty good at tracking breweries. The music and culture scene is vibrant. Everything on the peninsular is walkable. Rush hour is waiting at a traffic light for two cycles. The natives are friendly and more than happy to take tourists’ money.

No downsides at all. Well, some people aren’t keen on the the winter that can last what feels like 9 months. Yeah, it gets a touch cold and there can be a little bit of snow now and then. But the great thing is that you can actually get into all of those fancy restaurants without waiting all evening.

Everything is Subjective

This screed is my opinion of Portland. My favorite bars and restaurants, music venues and such stuff. All the things I enjoy about the city. I know many people who would disagree but obviously they are wrong.

There are many places I’ve not tried that might rate inclusion in these pages, but I haven’t tried them and so they are not included. Portland is rapidly gentrifying and new places open all the time. it’s hard to keep up. Unfortunately some old favorites fall by the wayside too. It’s strange to think of the changes that will occur in the next five to ten years.

Location

When people visit Portland they think of the Old Port – tourist central. There are lots of cool touristy things to do that tourists like while touring the touristy areas. You can easily spend a day or two in the Old Port and have a great time. Don’t forget to wear the tourist uniform: lobster shirt and lobster hat.

Those staying a bit longer will meander into the wilds of the peninsular. There is life outside of the Old Port and it’s spread throughout the peninsular, the part of the city between the Back Bay and the Fore River. There’s even rumours of life off the peninsular. We’ve sent expeditions off peninsular but as yet none have returned.

Most of the info in here is focused on the on-peninsular area which is lucky because it’s all easily walkable. Portland actually does extend far beyond into the hinterlands. Admittedly a large portion of the off-peninsular is residential and light industry but there are many gems there including my favorite bar, The Great Lost Bear and the Industry Way brewery area anchored by Allegash.

These are a few of my favorite things . . .

You are in Portland for a few days, what things shouldn’t be missed. Hmm, I guess it depends on what you like, but somethings everyone likes.

Get some bread from Standard Baking Co. It’s not just a bakery, it’s baking perfection. You’ll notice a line outside most days, rain, shine or bitterly cold. Why? Because it’s worth it. I can live on their baguettes (especially if they are warm straight from the oven), the Pecan Raisin Bread never lasts the day in my house and their muffins (called fruit buckles) are rightly famous.

On a similar note, grab some potato donuts from The Holy Donut. It’s one of those things that you have to try just to say you’ve done it. And they are so good.

Go for a walk along the Eastern Prom Trail. It’s easy to find, head to the shore, turn left and keep walking. Head past the ferry terminals, marina, narrow gauge railroad and beach. If you come to a hill turn around unless you want a close up view of the waste treatment plant (which I find quite interesting). At the boat ramp you can turn off and head up the hill to the Eastern Prom for a splendid view of Casco Bay. Walk back along the Eastern Prom to Fort Allen and down the stairs and back along the the trail.

You can’t come to Maine and not have a lobster (or possibly a lobster roll). It’s a state law. Just about any seafood restaurant will have them. The Portland Lobster Company is probably the most famous and it’s also a great place to sit outside and listen to local bands. Seafood, good beer selection and decent music on a pier in the sunshine, yes it’s that good, but only open in the warmer months.

Restaurants. There are hundreds of them. The popular ones (the ones with the biggest lines and longest waits) are Central Provisions, Fore St, Eventide, and Duckfat.

The nightlife is definitely worth checking out. It centers on Wharf St., Exchange St. and Fore St.. Head down there after 10pm on a weekend. Just stroll around and soak up the atmosphere. It’s a debauched scene. Not really debauched in the Bourbon St. or Key West sense but in a plaid shirt Maine kind of way. Loud music, hen/bachelor parties and happy drunk people. If only I could stay awake that late to appreciate it.

Touristy Things

Bus tours around the city – there are several different tours that drive you around and capture the essence of the city. You can see them lined up on Commercial St. in the Old Port near DiMillo’s. If you are in town for a while it’s good to get an overview before exploring on foot.

Duck boat tours – A city tour in a duck boat. Yeah you’ve seen them before in other cities and it’s much the same but getting out on the water in a bus is pretty cool. There is nothing in the world as touristy as a duck boat driving by with all the passengers “quacking”.

Ferry trips – Casco Bay Ferries run regular ferries to many of the islands. Peaks Island is the most common and you can even take your car but that’s a bit of a waste. Take a bike, or rent bikes over there. You can even rent golf carts. It’s a pleasant walk/ride/drive around the island perimeter. It isn’t far, kids can do it.

There are ferries stopping at the few larger islands in Casco Bay. For longer trips take the ‘mailboat’ that goes all the way to Cliff Island taking about 3 hours and is perfect for those hot sweaty days.

• Aside: My favorite trip was to Bailey Island where it drops you off at Cooke’s Lobster House and brings you back an hour or so later. Unfortunately it hasn’t come back after Covid but fingers crossed for a resumption.

Sailboat rides – There are a bunch of schooners docked on Maine State Pier (behind Casco Bay Ferry terminal). Stroll down and book a cruise at Portland Schooner Co. Great on a sunny day. They also have sunset cruises, yoga trips and such. My wife loves the sunset yoga and wine cruise. Personally you couldn’t pay me enough to go, well apart from the wine and sunset bits. Well worth checking out a cruise if you like being on the water.

Train ride – Portland has its very own narrow gauge railway Maine Narrow Gauge. It runs along the Eastern Prom Trail for about a mile. OK it’s a bit hokey but come on, who doesn’t like trains.

Artsy Stuff

PMA – The Portland Museum Art is a very well curated art museum. It’s housed in a cool building designed by I.M. Pei. All your typical Monets, Cassats, Miros etc. along with a lot of Maine based art. They run a trip to Winslow Homer’s studio on Prouts Neck which is a must-see if you like his work.

Art Galleries – there are quite a lot scattered around the city, mostly in the Art District (obviously) centered around the Maine College of Art on Congress St. On the first Friday of every month most of the galleries open their doors for First Friday Art Walk. They publish a map of the galleries participating so it’s easy to find your way. A pleasant way to spend an afternoon before ending up at one of the breweries.

High Brow Stuff – The Merrill Auditorium is the place for the Portland Symphony, ballet, opera and all the other stuff your mother likes. It’s a beautiful old place with lots of character.

Patriot Cinema – I don’t know, should this be in the Artsy Stuff section? It’s an old school cinema straight from the ’60s. No laser shows or massaging seats but half the price of the competition. I wonder how long cinemas will last.

Walks

I like walking. I like walking around Portland. I like these walks . . .

The Old Port – Well, it’s not really a walk, it’s just meandering around town. The popular areas are centered along Commercial St. (along the water), Exchange St., Wharf St. and Fore St. Tourist central with lots of everything tourists desperately need or even things their dog needs. It may be touristy but it’s pretty cool to wander around. Portland is the biggest city in Maine but it’s quite compact and accessible by foot. I never drive anywhere downtown. From the Old Port head up to Monument Square. It’s worth checking out downstairs in the library for any exhibits. Congress St. is the heart of the city. Continue west along Congress St. past the Longfellow House (stop in if you are a Hiawatha fan), the Maine College of Art, up to Congress Square where you’ll find the art museum and State Theater. Keep going to Longfellow Square and stop in LFK for a beer or Pai Men Miake for japanese nibbles. That’s it, you’ve done Portland! You’ve got a flavor of the city so you might as well head back to the Old Port and spend some money.

Eastern Prom – A very popular walk in the east end of the city along the shore. Lots of walkers and bikers. Follow the trail along the shore past a marina to a small beach and eventually to the boat launch area. You can continue on but it passes the sewage works which spoils the ambiance somewhat. Instead take a left and walk up the grassy hill to Eastern Promenade. It’s a great view of the islands scattered around Casco Bay. You can then head straight along Congress Street back to the Old Port and get a flavor of Munjoy Hill. Stop at the Portland Observatory a tower to spot incoming merchant ships back in the days of sail. Or instead of walking back via Congress, take a left and walk a short distance to Fort Allen for more views of the bay. There is path down the hill back to the Eastern Prom Trail or just keep heading down Fore St. back to civilization.

Back Bay Loop – This extends the East Prom Trail and takes you around the Back Bay. Keep going on the East Prom Trail past the beautiful sewage works then follow the path to the right along the water and under the highway bridge. Take a left at the end and follow the path keeping the Back Bay on your left (left at the first fork). It’s 3.5 miles around and has a great view of Portland from the back side. Walk all the way around until you hit the path overlooking the highway then turn right and walk back via Washington Ave. It’s a decent hike so wear sensible shoes and make sure you have a pee before you set off.

The Long Walk – My favorite walk for reasons that will become apparent. It mostly follows the Back Bay Loop (above). Halfway around take a right on Vannah and an immediate left on Clifton and you end up on Forest Ave a few blocks from The Great Lost Bear, my favorite bar in the city. I don’t take this route on the way back because I’m usually busting for a pee halfway. When you’ve finished imbibing in the Bear take a right outside the door and head for home straight down Forest Ave and take a left at the lights onto Prebble St. and hit one of the downtown bars for a pit stop.

Mackworth Island – It’s a short drive up route 1 north. After crossing the Presumpscot Bridge take the 3rd right on Andrews Ave. This leads to a bridge over to Mackworth Island. There is a small parking lot which is often full so get there early. It’s a great walk around the island. It’s quite short, very easy (suitable for small kids) with excellent views. There is a charge to enter but the booth is only open what seems like an hour each year. I bet you pick the wrong time though!

Western Prom and the West End – If the walk to Longfellow Square is not long enough, then keep going. Go west along Congress St to Longfellow Square. Cross State St. and turn up Pine St. (at the corner with LFK). Then just meander along until you reach the Western Prom. There is a funky old cemetery at the north end and Maine General Hospital at the other end. In between you get to see the houses of the old time big wigs. On most days you can see Mount Washington and the White Mountains in NH. You can also see the airport and oil storage tanks along the river. I mean, what are you going to do, life is full of compromises. It’s a great place to watch the sun set over the mountains. The few roads back from the Prom are awash with beautiful old brick houses. It’s worth wandering around Vaughan St. and Chadwick St. to see how the other half live.

Fore River Sanctuary – A few miles west of the city center along Congress St. A walk along the now abandoned canal that use to run all the way to Sebago Lake. It finishes at a waterfall every bit as spectacular as Niagra. Everyone likes waterfalls so just do it. Fore River Sanctuary. To be honest the waterfall is slightly less impressive than Niagra.

Evergreen Cemetery – A popular walk around Portland’s largest cemetery. Then hit the trails behind for a stroll through the woods. Evergreen Cemetery

Portland Trails – There are many more trails. The ones mentioned above are the trails I’ve enjoyed. There are many others described here

Supermarkets

If you are in the East End there is a Walgreens pharmacy/convenience store opposite the Catherderal on Congress St. Good for when you run out of essentials. The Portland Food Co-op is next door for more esoteric choices and a warm sense of being pro local farmers (be warned, you need to have a tattoo to enter). The closest supermarket is Whole Food (Whole Paycheck!) which is a mile or so along Franklin Ave. towards the highway, not really walkable if you’re carrying a pile of groceries. It’s a high end supermarket, good choice and quality, but not the cheapest place around. They are owned by Amazon so of course they’ll deliver.

Just around the corner is Trader Joe’s for those people with tattoos and a top knot. Hannaford is a regular supermarket just the other side of the highway – it’s the one we usually use, at least until I get the tats and top knot.

Shopping

Wander around the Old Port and you’ll find everything a tourist needs. Yes you really do need every piece of clothing imaginable with lobsters on. Portland attracts a few hoity shops too and if you are interested I’m sure you’ll find them.

Missing the malls back home? We have malls in Maine too. The closest is the aptly named Maine Mall in South Portland (or SoPo if you want to sound local). But what about Walmart you ask. This is ‘merica after all, course we got ’em. A small one (it’s all relative) a few miles up Rte 1 in Falmouth and one the size of a small planet a few miles south in Scarborough. Both are 5 minutes drive from the Old Port.

Kids

Portland isn’t really a kid’s place unless your kid is 21+ and likes live music, good restaurants and bars (mine do!). For the younger kids there are a few places to keep them occupied. The Children’s Museum of Maine moved from downtown to Thompsons Point. You can take them for a beer at Bissell Brothers next door right after.

There are local beaches, the closest is on the East End Beach in . . . you guessed it, the East End. A pleasant walk along the Eastern Prom Trail. Only a small place but convenient for little ‘uns. Next to the beach is the East End Boat Ramp and Portland Paddle where you can rent kayaks and go on group paddles.

South Portland has Willard Beach which isn’t too far away. A bit further into Cape Elizabeth you’ll find Fort Williams with a small beach plus the Portland Head Lighthouse (the most photographed lighthouse in the universe! Or so they tell me) and the best lobster rolls in the state. Fort Williams is my favorite place for a picnic. The views are stunning.

Keep going south to Two Lights State Park and Crescent Beach State Park. If you are a big beach person keep heading south to Scarborough. There are lots of beaches all the way down to the NH border. Old Orchard Beach is a young adult & family destination with fun fair. Ogunquit is a cute little town with a very popular beach (and a good gay nightlife if you are that way inclined). York Beach is about a hundred miles long. Heading north of Portland you tend to get the more archetypal Maine rocky coastline with the odd beach sprinkled around.

An afternoon at the ballpark is great fun. Portland has a local team The Portland Sea Dogs. They are a double A team affiliated with the Boston Red Sox. It’s walkable from downtown, tickets are cheap and it’s a high standard of play. A lovely little ballpark where every seat has a great view. If you’ve ever been to a minor league ball game you know the deal. Family friendly, lots of kids, silly kids’ events between innings (toss the lobster). Maybe not the excitement of Fenway Park but 10% of the cost and much more enjoyable with a family in tow. I take in a couple of games every season especially if one of the Sox stars is rehabing in the minors.

There are kid’s playgrounds scattered around the city. There is a big one at the top of Congress St on the Eastern Prom along with tennis courts, basketball courts and a baseball field (and always a line of food trucks too). Payson Park has a large playground in a pleasant setting.

The Narrow Gauge Railroad on the Eastern Prom Trail is cool for a quick railway ride and who doesn’t like steam trains?

Golf

What a great way to spend a beautiful day, walking around grassy areas whacking a little white ball right past a small hole. Actually it’s kind of boring. OK, it’s a complete waste of time (in my humble opinion). The only thing worse than playing golf is watching the stupid game on TV.

If golf is your thing then good luck to you, I’m sure Google will find you the perfect place to play in our fair city.

Sunsets

A whole section on sunsets? Yeah, I like sunsets . . .

Western Prom – a pleasant walk through the West End. Looking west on a clear day you can see Mount Washington in NH. You can also see the airport if that’s your thing but get there for the sunset over the White Mountains.

Fort Sumner Park – the closest place to catch the sunset from downtown. Head up Munjoy Hill and take a left onto North St, A few blocks along you’ll find Fort Sumner Park with a view over downtown Portland. Ah, a beautiful sunset over Rte 295 (and Mount Washington).

Bug Light Park – in South Portland. What, you have to leave Portland. Inconceivable! It’s just over the river but it’s definitely a drive not a walk. You’ve probably seen Bug Light from the Portland water front, it’s one of the iconic features of the area. It’s set next to a large park and offers an excellent view of downtown Portland and the sun setting behind it.

Food and Drink

Outside Eating and Drinking.

There’s no better place to be than Portland in the summer. Beautiful weather, gorgeous scenery, friendly people and lots of outside eating and drinking. It gets pretty cold up here so Mainers are partial to getting themselves outdoors when the weather turns. It’s not unusual to see people huddled up against the cold in early Spring or late Fall. But summer, ah perfect.

The following have (or had) outside drinking/dining,

• Bayside Bowl – plastic seats on the top deck, I love it.
• Portland Lobster Company – good beer, good music, good seafood.
• Slab – pizza and beer
• Lukes Lobster – on the river
• The Porthole – on a wharf
• DiMillo’s – on a boat
• J’s Oyster – near DiMillos
• Liquid Riot – tiny deck out back
• Novare Res – huge deck in front
• Thirsty Pig – huge deck out back
• Flatbread – small deck out back
• Ri Ra’s – few tables in the street
• Yosaku – Sushi
• Sapporo – More Sushi
• Middle St. – a bunch of restaurants on Middle St behind the Hampton Inn have tables in the street, DuckFat, East Ender, Honey Paw, Eventide, Tomaso’s. Expanded into the road during Covid, hopefully they keep the outdoor seating.

Bagels, Donuts and All Things Bread

My daughter lived in Brooklyn NY and raves about the bagels there. They are good, in fact very good, just as you expect Brooklyn bagels should be. But not as good as Portland bagels in my humble opinion. My daughter will argue the point but she’s wrong.

Rose Foods – on Forest Ave. Newish bagel place outside the tourist area. Excellent bagels, voted best in town last year.

Scratch Bakery – in South Portland has been the local favorite for a while. Just a great French-style bakery with excellent bagels. It’s worth the drive. It’s also worth ordering in advance, they can sell out.

Forage Market – a cafe on Washington Ave. walkable from downtown serving breakfast and lunch. They make their own bagels and offer delicious bagel sandwiches. As good as Scratch? Hmmm, tough question.

Special mention to Union Bagel which has limited opening times and restricted menu as I write this. If they come back strong you can’t go wrong with their bagel and egg breakfast sandwich.

I’m not a big donut eater but by law I have to mention potato donuts.

The Holy Donut – yep donuts made from Maine potatoes. Famous for miles around. There is often a line outside their Old Port shop in the summer. Come on, you know really want to try one. It’s hard to choose so go ahead and order a dozen.

HiFi Donuts – in Monument Square sell excellent donuts. It’s not like Dunkins, it has a range of amazing looking donuts with bizarre shapes and names. It’s hard not to order one of each. My wife’s favorite is the Christmas mince pie donut (hmmm, I know). It sounds bizarre but she loves them.

Just like every other town in New England you’ll trip over Dunkin Donuts on every block. I mean, why bother, just do the right thing and find a local donut shop. You know it’s the correct thing to do and they have much better donuts.

Portland is home to some excellent bakeries. Standard Baking has been mentioned earlier and is the perfect rendition of the french bakery. My go-to place – the baguettes are amazing. BLVL is excellent, with a good selection of sandwiches and pizza. Zu Bakery in the west end is getting all kinds of good press. If you like pies then Two Fat Cats is the place to go.

Coffee Shops

Unfortunately not in the Amsterdam sense. There are lots of local places around town and of course there is always Starbucks and Dunkins but come on, they just don’t fit in with the Portland vibe. Popular local favorites are Coffee by Design (multiple locations), Tandem (awesome Cheddar Jalapeno biscuit), Speckled Ax and Bard (my son’s favorite), but really try any local place you find, they’re all better than Starbucks.

An interesting new addition to the scene is Novel, a book bar and cafe. Coffee shop full of books by day, bar in the evening. What’s not to like. Close by is another new place called Another Round. It’s a board game bar and cafe. I like where this trend is going!

Breweries

Admit it, that’s why you came here. There are lots of them scattered around the city but they are gregarious in nature and tend to flock together in bunches which is very convenient after a few beers. There are two main areas, Industrial Ave and East Bayside.

Industrial Ave.

This is historically where breweries start before moving on to bigger and better things and leaving their place for the next brewing startup. It’s a few miles west along Forest Ave and isn’t walkable from downtown. The good news is that it’s not too far and there are a bunch of breweries packed together in a couple of blocks.

Allegash – the big one on Industrial Ave and becoming popular around the country. If you like Belgium beers this is a must visit. They do great free tours but book ahead, they fill up pretty quick and turning up at the brewery without one you’ll probably miss out. Rumor has it they are moving their tasting room to Scarborough. It’s probably wise to check this out before heading out. Check out their Curieux, a Belgium triple aged in Jim Beam casks – as good as it sounds.

I heard a rumor that Allegash are moving their tasting room to Scarborough. Are they keeping both open? No idea. Check online before you go.

Across the road from Allegash you’ll find Foundation, Definitive, Battery Steele and Austin Street. I’ve had great beers at all of these. Foundation is my favorite of the bunch but plenty of people will argue the point. Hey, they’re all good.

• Aside: Many years ago I was getting wet on a dreary Sunday afternoon in Portland. Let’s grab a beer says my incredibly intuative wife. So we headed to the Little Tap House and ordered a couple of beers that I’d never heard of. One was Foundation Epiphany, can’t remember the other. The barman asked me which one is mine and I said the one that tastes the best. I tried them both and said, ooh this one is excellent. There was only one other guy at the bar and he told me he owns Foundation brewery and this is the first time it’s been on tap in a bar. He was overjoyed at my reaction. My wife comes back from the bathroom and samples the other beer, hmmm, OK, them tastes the Foundation, “I like this”. The expression on the guys face was priceless.

Don’t forget Geary’s which is a stone’s throw away. This is an old time Portland brewery and was one of my favorites before the microbrewery explosion a few years back. It was late to the IPA fad and somehow missed the marketing hype, but still a decent beer.

East Bayside

This is a light industrial area that’s undergoing gentrification. Portland’s answer to Williamsburg (only better!). Breweries, coffee shops, distilleries, and restaurants are springing up all over. It all starts with the two big breweries on Fox St. Well, big for microbrweries. Rising Tide is next to Austin Street (which still retains a small place on Industrial Ave.). Both have large outdoor areas and you’ll usually find cornhole boards, a food truck or two and maybe a local band. Great places to relax on a warm day.

Around the corner is a gaggle of smaller places. My favorites are BelleFlower (excellent IPAs) and Goodfire tucked behind the popular Lone Pine. Across the road is a real funky place, Urban Farm Fermentory which mostly brews kombucha and cider but also a beer or two. Check the place out and relive your younger hippie days. Update: UFF is now closed and hopefully reopening as something interesting. In the back of the building is Hi Fidelity Brewing producing lower alcohol brews.

Do you like craft selzers and ciders? Well Apres is the place for you. I can’t say I’ve tried their wares (I mean, selzers!) but it’s a cool looking place and popular. If that’s your thing, then this is your place.

Bordering on East Bayside is Inner Washington Ave. Oxbow Brewing has a tasting room there with some wild beers. I once had a beer made with lobsters because, well, Maine. One piece of local advice, if Duckfat has a long wait and you’re desperate for their fries, then go to Oxbow and get Duckfat fries (takeout only) next to their outside seating. Perfect to consume with a lobster ale!

You’ll also find Maine Mead Works, Maine Craft Distilling, Root Wild Kombucha, you get the idea. There are a whole bunch of cool restaurants, cafes and so forth along this section of Washington Ave.

The Old Port

There are a few breweries kicking around the Old Port. Liquid Riot on Commercial St. is a brewery, distillery and restaurant. Started by the guys who brought us Novare Res. The beer is fine but my favorite tipple there is Gin and Tonic – they make their own tonic (as well as gin of course) and the tonic is quite unique. There’s a tiny deck out back overlooking the wharves if you are really lucky.

Gritty McDuffs is a Maine chain with a location in the middle of the Old Port. Not my favorite beer but a great people watching place and crazy busy on weekend evenings. Just to the east of the Old Port is Brickyard Hollow which is a brewery/pizza place in a cool urban setting. Close by is Shipyard Brewery the old lady of the brewing industry here. It lacks the cachet of the newer microbreweries but is worth a visit for the brewery tour. They have built a ‘Brewtel’ next to the brewery. A brewery/hotel, whats not to like.

Stars and Stripes is a relative newcomer near the Lobsterman Statue. Update: Another one bites the dust. Unfortunately Sebago Brewing shut down their Old Port location so don’t bother looking for it. I miss that place.

Other Portland Locations

Bissell Brothers is a big name in Portland microbrewing. The Substance is the default beer of many locals and is found in most bars. A bit like Portland’s version of Bud Light but actually drinkable. They are located at Thompson’s Point which is theoretically walkable from downtown but I’ve never attempted it and I love walking. Definitely worth a visit though.

West Bayside is one of the newer booming place with a bunch of breweries, bars and restaurants opening behind the bowling alley. Batson River has a wicked cool tasting room. Banded Brewing is another Maine brewery with a tasting rooms there. Want a non-alcohol beer, then try Kit NA Brewing. Can’t say I’ve tried it but I will, I promise.

• Aside: To get to West Bayside from downtown you have to walk down Prebble St. This is where the soup kitchen use to be and close to the homeless shelter. The first time you walk down there it seems a bit sketchy and there are often homeless people scatted around. It can be a bit off-putting for those of us with delicate sensibilities. Don’t worry, it’s fine, they are just trying to get through the day the same as we are. And you can probably run faster then them anyway.

Other Locations

It’s impossible to list Portland’s breweries without mentioning Maine Beer Company. They moved out of Portland to Freeport, 15 minutes up the highway into an awesome new building on Rte 1. Their IPA Lunch is up there with Bissell Brother’s The Substance as a Portland staple. If you like IPAs this is a must-do pilgrimage and it’s a wicked cool place too. They have embraced the Save-The-Planet movement and encourage you to recycle and hug trees while you slam down a few IPAs. There is a pizza oven inside and if they have lobster pizza on special you have to get it – you’ll thank me.

South Portland has a bunch of decent breweries as does Biddeford as well as several of the surrounding town but you must be beered out by now. Google is your friend.

Beer Tours

You see the Brew Buses driving around town or parked outside the breweries. If you have a limited time or just like being shuttled around then this might be for you. I’ve never tried it so I can’t comment on the experience. I guess it beats being the designated driver though. Google around, I think there are a few companies doing this.

Bars

Oh boy, where do I start! I guess I’ll just ramble through a bunch of my favorites. This isn’t a comprehensive list, I’ve probably forgotten a bunch (that’s what drinking beer does to you) and there are many bars I’ll never visit. I would happily visit any of the bars on this list (well except one) so here goes . . .

My favorite bar is The Great Lost Bear on Forest Ave. Yeah, I’ve got the tee-shirt (actually several of them). A couple of miles from downtown but worth the trip (it’s on the way to/way back from the Industrial Ave. breweries). A huge selection of local beers with a few from far away. A great atmosphere especially if you can squeeze a seat at the bar. Good bar food, happy hour specials, tap takeovers. What’s not to like?

Back to the Old Port for Novare Res Bier Cafe hidden in an alley off Exchange St. (you can find it, it’s not hard!) A hipster atmosphere with an eclectic range of draft beers and a beer vault with hundreds (thousands?) of bottles of Belgium beers. A bit like Portlands version of Belgium’s Delirium Cafe. It can seem a bit pretentious but hey, whatever. Inside is dark but inviting in the depths of winter and there is a large deck for summer imbibing and playing with your dog.

Just across Exchange St. is The Thirsty Pig. It started as a restaurant specializing in gourmet sausages with a good beer selection and turned into a good beer bar that also sells sausages. A bonus of a large deck out the back.

Rosies on Fore St. is a neighborhood bar transplanted into the Old Port. Lots of locals, popcorn machine, pub food and doesn’t take itself too seriously.

You can’t beat Gritty McDuff’s for good old fashion people watching. The beer is meh but great atmosphere and filled with all the characters Maine can offer. Can get chaotic late on weekends which only adds to the fun.

The Old Port has many bars aimed at tourists, Three Dollar Deweys has been around for a while, Ri Ra’s is a typical Irish bar (actually a local chain), a good place for Guinness and fish and chips. It fills up for big soccer games if that’s your thing (it’s my things) with a good raucous atmosphere. Another Irish bar is Bull Feaney’s, opposite Gritty’s – good fun in the evenings, bands upstairs at the weekends. Update: Bull Feeney’s closed and reopened as The Henry. It looks pretty much the same though.

The King’s Head on Merrill’s Wharf provides more of an upscale drinking experience if that’s your thing. The Portland Lobster Company is a great place to grab a beer (and a lobster) and listen to local bands on a pier over the water. Only open in the summer and can get a bit crowded. This might be my favorite place in the city to sit outside with a beer and watch a decent local band. The Mash Tun on Wharf St. is a good watering hole right in tourist central. Good beer selection and snacks.

The Bayside Bowl is a bowling alley in West Bayside. I love two things about this place (and I don’t bowl). They have a bar that puts on local bands in a casual atmosphere. Better yet they have a roof bar which is a great way to spend a few hours on a sunny afternoon. A view, beer, sunshine, and a taco trailer. You know you can’t resist.

Heading west out of the Old Port there is The Dogfish Bar and Grill on Free St. A pleasant place with good food and often has bands in the early evening and a small balcony upstairs for summer evenings. (Update – they are closing down! Damn, I liked that place.) I once tried Mathew’s (Portland’s oldest bar) directly opposite and managed to get out in one piece. It might be a lovely place but has a bit of a rough atmosphere for my delicate and sensitive disposition.

The Little Tap House (behind the Art Museum) is a “craft beer gastropub” – oooh la la. But still it has a decent bar and beer selection. LFK in Longfellow Square is a mixture of neighborhood bar and hipster joint. Further west along Congress St. is Bramhall. A “modern speakeasy”, another oooh la la. It’s hard to find as it’s tucked in the basement of an imposing house. It’s a brick walled cellar bar, very cozy, think brick and candles. Very inviting in the depths of winter. Take your hottie there!

If you are in the West End try Ruski’s the archetypal neighborhood bar. Even at breakfast time you’ll find locals downing Bloody Marys and pints of ale. My kind of place (in theory anyway, beer for breakfast, hmmm, maybe a touch early).

Do you like arcade games? Then Arcadia is the place for you. On Congress street, it’s full of pinball machines and arcade games. And beer of course.

Rooftop Bars

Yeah, you tend to pay a touch more but oh the view! It’s well worth it.

Luna on top of the Canopy Hotel on Commercial St. The newest addition and very popular. It’s especially nice if you get seated in the outdoor section. It has a beautiful view over the Fore River and a relaxing vibe. I’m afraid you are going to have to wait unless you are really lucky. The trick is to get there at 4:00pm when they open.

Top of the East on the top floor of the old grand lady of Portland hotels The EastLand Park in Congress Square. Nowadays it’s The Westin but the didn’t bother changing the rooftop bar to Top of the West. A cool cocktail bar with views over Portland and Casco Bay. The views at night are quite something.

Bayside Bowl is not your average rooftop bar. Not too high, no view of the water, open to the elements, stuck down in Bayside. But it’s still my favorite. Cheap frozen cocktails at happy hour, decent beer selection, mostly locals (few tourists venture this far) and a taco truck. No better place to spend a late afternoon in the sun.

Cocktails

I’m not a cocktail drinker, I’m more of a beer and wine slob so my recommendation would be crap. I’m sure Google will set you straight if that’s your thing. Cocktail bars seems to sprout up overnight in the city. My daughter likes cocktails and her favorite is The Hunt and Alpine Club (not as snooty as it sounds, but it’s a cocktail bar so expect some level of pretentiousness).

• Aside: There is a brewery/distillery in the Old Port called Liquid Riot (yeah I know, stupid name) with decent beer and its own spirits. The most outstanding thing about the place is that it makes its own tonic water – it’s wonderful. The only brewery in the city where I drink Rum & Tonic (I would drink G&T but they don’t make their own gin). Update, changed hands and is now Camp Pennant. It has the same vibe but unfortunately they no longer make their own tonic.

Happy Hours

Come on, admit it, you love happy hours. Banned in Massachusetts because they can’t have people enjoying themselves. Come on up to Maine experience the way life should be.

Happy Hours

Restaurants

There’s an excellent website devoted to all things foodie in Portland: Portland Food Map

I’ve found their rating system accurate and up to date and they link to reviews of all the restaurants. Much better than my limited biased takes on my favorites. Just go there and skip my crappy reviews.

Just like the previous section, this is my take on the restaurants I’ve enjoyed in Portland. I’m sure there are good places not on the list and others I haven’t visited. Restaurants come and go constantly and poor places rarely last too long. It’s hard to find a bad meal in the city.

New York Times Recomendations

Each year the NYT compiles a list of its 50 best restaurants in the country. Portland gets a few mentions . . .

2022: Twelve – recently opened with much hype. Tasting menus only at this time.

2022: Leeward – famous for its pasta dishes.

2021: Cong Tu Bot – Vietnamese restaurant on Washington Ave. Not your average Vietnamese food.

I think the NYT has a food reporter who likes to visit Maine and likes it even more on an expense account to checkout new restaurants.

Popular Restaurants

You know it’s popular because you can’t get in the damn place in the summer.

Central Provisions – Small Plates (hipster for ‘tapas’) and very good. I really like this place but I go there in winter so I don’t have to wait an eternity.

Fore Street – The grand dame of Portland fine dining. Guess where it is? Yep, it’s on Fore Street. Half a block from the Hampton Inn. Nice place, great seafood (fish on a plank!) and very popular. The menu changes daily depending on what the local fishermen catch. If you can’t get a reservation you can line up before opening time and hope for one of the open tables.

David’s – A Monument Square staple. One of my favorites for an upscale evening meal. A great location, highly recommended. Also pizza and beer at an outside table on a sunny afternoon watching the world go by is a treat.

The Rooms – The Rooms are all jointly owned, all have excellent food and each has its own unique characteristics. There are four in Portland: Boone’s, The Front Room, The Grill Room, The Corner Room . . .

Boone’s on Custom House Wharf is the newest (and my wife’s favorite) specializing in seafood. The place is gorgeous and in a great location. In winter it has a very cosy welcoming atmosphere with a roaring fire. In summer they open up the decks, the upstairs one is my favorite. Good food, good location, good environment.

The Front Room – A Munjoy Hill fixture away from the maddening crowds but easily walkable from downtown. It still gets pretty busy though. It describes itself as new American comfort food in a neighborhood gathering spot. Sure, why not. Munjoy Hill is a historically working class area that is in the latter stages of gentrification. Well worth walking up Congress St. for great views of Casco Bay. Close to The Front Room is The Blue Spoon which you can go to if the wait for the Front Door is too long.

The Grill Room – It does what it says on the tin – grilled meat. Is it the best steak house in the city? I don’t do a lot of steak restaurants but this one is good. Classy dark wood interior and excellent steaks.

The Corner Room – Eclectic Italian. I normally skip Italian restaurants (I know, I know, who doesn’t like Italian!), especially the family style ones, it’s all pasta, tomato sauce and cheese, yawn. The Corner Room is the only Italian restaurant I recommend to people. If you like Italian you’ll love this place.

Sur Lie – I like Sur Lie, it reminds me of Central Provisions. Innovative small plates in a pleasant atmosphere. Further from the crowds makes it a bit more accessible. And no, I have no idea what the name means either.

Street and Company – On Wharf Street. If you like seafood you’ll love this place. From the same people who brought us Fore Street Restaurant.

Scales – a great locarion on a wharf in the Old Port. A popular place specializing in seafood. No doubt that it’s good but I found it a touch expensive for what you get. I prefer Street or Fore St. for that kind of money.

Miyake (and Pai Men Miyake) – If you like Japanese food then these two are a must. Miyake on Fore St. is upscale and specializes in a multi course tasting menu. Or at least it did before the Covid closure. I think that the first time I ate at Miyake was the best meal I’ve had in Portland. The saki pairing to go with the tasting menu is interesting, who knew there was such a variety but I think it’s wasted on my western tastebuds (a pitcher of Substance please). Pai Men Miyake in Longfellow Square is more casual, less eclectic and a bit more approachable. It’s away from the tourist areas so easier to grab a table. The outside seating overlooking the square is a bonus.

Eventide – Everyone loves this place. A seafood restaurant specializing oysters and raw bar. It’s good, it’s small, it’s not cheap and it’s oh so crowded. Expect to see a line outside well before it opens. They sectioned off part of the road for outside seating during Covid. Hopefully they keep this long term. Eventide is part of a three restaurant chain owned by the same people. On one side is The Honey Paw an asian fusion place in a bright open setting. On the other side is Hugos for fine dining. It closed during the pandemic and as yet hasn’t showed any signs of reopening.

The Shop by Island Creek Oysters is the place for oysters. Forget Eventide, walk 10 minutes to Washington Ave. and splurge on oysters on their deck with a carafe of Prosecco. I’m not a huge oyster fan but we eat here once a year just for the experience.

DuckFat – Across the road from Eventide. It’s all about the Belgium fries cooked in . . . you guessed it, duck fat. They are damn good. More of a snack place serving fries and paninis. They also expanded into the street during the pandemic which helps with the crowds. If you just want the fries, walk five minutes to Washington St. Tucked behind Anoche is a DuckFat Frites Shack, a small kiosk that just serves fries. Luckily they are in the courtyard of Oxbox Brewing so you have something to do while you wait.

Crispy Gai – The place has a cult following. It’s famous for its Thai battered chicken. Think KFC that taste good. I think they add methamphetamines or something to make the chicken addictive.

• Aside: I was sitting in a bar in Bar Harbor (absolutely beautiful part of the world) way north of Portland and started chatting to a guy from Boston. He claims that he drives 2 hours from Boston just to eat chicken at Crispy Gai. I mean, it’s good, but come on!

Pizza

Everyone loves a good pizza and there are plenty of pizza places around

Otto is the go-to pizza for many in Portland. There are several in the city, famous for its Mashed Potato, Bacon & Scallion Pizza. It sounds weird but it somehow works. You are a true Portlander seen when walking around with an Otto pizza box.

Bonobo is my favorite venue, tucked away in the West End. A funky little neighborhood place with good pizza, decent beer list and a pleasant atmosphere. I love sitting at the small bar and watching them bake pizzas. Pre-Covid they had a great Monday happy hour, not sure anymore. Oh no, Bonobo is no more. It’s reborn as a taco restaurant, Cantina Calafia. I guess I should swallow my disappointment and try it sometime.

Tipo is in the Back Bay so probably a drive from downtown (what, off the peninsular!) It was opened by the guys from Central Provisions (perhaps the most popular restaurants in town). A modern pleasant place with excellent pizza. Well worth the 5 minute drive.

Portland Pie in an old brick building just to the west of the Old Port is a Portland staple. It’s somewhere I gravitate there on cold winter’s evenings. My favorite is the seafood pizza, I’m always a sucker for seafood. They have expanded throughout Maine and NH over the past few years.

Slab is not your average pizza, it focuses on thick crust southern Italian style. It calls itself Sicilian Street Food and I guess that’s the way Sicilians love their pizza. A pretty unique style I’ve not seen anywhere else (except below). Small restaurant with an excellent beer selection. It come to life in the summer with a huge outdoor space and a stage for local bands.

Micuccis is an Italian grocery store on India St. (world famous within Portland!) with a pizza oven in the back. It bakes identical pizzas to Slab. Popular for takeout lunch, not open in the evenings.

• Aside: A few years ago the pizza chef at Micuccis left and opened Slab. Both claimed to “own” the Sicilian Slab recipe and there was a lot said at the time but it seems like everyone’s coping with the current state of affairs.

Flatbread is part of a New England restaurant chain on a pier on Commercial St. My wife’s favorite pizza place. An attractive place with a cool bar and some outside seating on the water. Great pizza if you like thin crust and a decent beer selection. It can be tough to get into especially on a weekend and in the summer.

Brickyard Hollow is a brewery + pizza joint just east of the Old Port. Both the pizza and beer are fine and the atmosphere is cordial. It has a great location and is a great place to sit in summer when they open the huge doors onto Commercial St. Busy during warm weather.

Lazzari in the West End is a large modern restaurant on Congress St. close to the State Theater. Good pizza in a clean spacious environment.

Radici on Washington St. is a small place with outside tables in summer. Upscale kind of place fitting in with the hipster-like vibe of the area.

Others – yes there are many others, ranging from late night slice joints to fancy restaurants. Surely we’ve discussed pizza enough, do we really need to describe any more pizza joints?

Breakfast

The most important meal of the day. Or so my wife keeps reminding me. I prefer a couple of espressos and a poke in the eyes, you know, how a real man wakes up.

There are a few diners in downtown and they all serve decent breakfasts. I mean it’s eggs and hash browns, how hard is it to mess up?

Becky’s Diner – Becky’s Dinah, ain’t nothin’ finah as the bumper sticker says. It opened on Commercial St. a million years ago to cater to the early morning lobster fishermen well before the tourists arrived. It’s become a local icon. It’s your typical diner but it’s good and very popular.

Dutch’s – off Monument Square. Some people rave about this as the best breakfast place in town.

The Porthole – On a pier in the Old Port. My wife’s go-to place because it’s a 2 minute stroll. It’s really nice sitting on the pier on a summer morning watching the water activity while scarfing down a plate of eggs.

Miss Portland – on Marginal Way. A silver railcar trailer just like how diners are supposed to look. Gets crowded on weekends.

Forage Market – On Washington Ave. A bit more hipster than the diner option. The last time I checked they were only doing take out (since Covid). The breakfast bagel sandwiches are out of this world. Might be the best bagels in Portland.

Marcy’s Diner on Free St. Yer typical downtown diner.

• Aside: Marcy’s made the news a few years back when they kicked out a family with a screaming kid. Social media had a field day on both sides of the issue as you can imagine. Personally I enjoy eating breakfast in peace and quiet. Punt the little brat!

Hot Suppa – A bit of a walk to the West End but worth it. Specializes in southern faire so if you like grits or biscuits and gravy then this is the place to go. Popular for breakfast and there’s often a wait.

• Aside: The Friendly Toast is a new breakfast/lunch place next to the Hampton Inn. I dislike this place for irrational reasons (and some rational reasons too). It use to be a Sebago Brewery location which I loved. It never made it through Covid and is now a diner. It’s just so sad. I took my wife who loves breakfast and thought I’d just get a latte and maybe a bagel sandwich. No expresso machine, no bagels. OK, maybe an English muffin, nope. Some fruit and yougut? Dream on pal. But if your idea of a perfect breakfast is a huge mound of eggs, bacon and hash browns then you are in luck. My wife thought the breakfast was fine but a little expensive. Go to Becky’s instead!

Brunch

I’m not a brunch kinda guy but I know a lot of people love their brunch. You’ll find everything you need to know here.

I Don’t Like Mondays

Because a whole bunch of restaurants take the day off. How dare they! Don’t they know I’m hungry on Mondays too! A local paper published a list of places open on Mondays here.

Music

I love watching music being performed live, even if it’s not my kind of music. Well maybe not country and western but I’ll take in most other kinds. There are lots of places around town especially in the warmer months. Head down the Old Port in the summer on weekend evenings and you’ll hear music cranking from many bars. The Wharf Street area is the music hub with live bands in multiple venues.

Portland House of Music – my favorite music venue. Music most nights featuring local and regional acts. It use to be a florist. Wednesday nights often feature the Maine Dead Project, so if you are a deadhead this is the place to spend Wednesdays.

Portland Lobster Company – Who doesn’t like sitting on a pier in the open air, drinking pitchers of beer and watching live music. I love this place. Can get a bit crowded so if you know the band and like then then get there early. Music most evenings and weekends all though the warmer months.

Slab – a pizza restaurant just off Monument Square. They have a large beer garden with a stage. A great place to hang out on a summer afternoon to eat pizza, drink beer and listen to local bands.

Aura – recently remodeled into an outstanding venue for watching bands. Features more popular music, cover bands and out of town acts.

Bayside Bowl – a bar in bowling alley. I know, it sounds tacky but I really like the casual nature of the place. They put on decent up-and-coming local bands and there’s often no cover.

Genos – a real townie bar in the West End. Half the place is locals drinking Buds and playing pool and the other half has a smoky club atmosphere (without the smoke of course). It doesn’t take itself too seriously. No draft beer – yeah, one of those places. The music tends towards heavy metal but it’s a great place to watch live music.

The State Theater – the big place in town for national acts

The Merrill Auditorium – an old school auditorium. Everything from The Portland Symphony, ballet and opera to modern popular performers. If you are into crowd surfing this isn’t the place for you.

One Longfellow Square – has more of an acoustic bent. It has a bit of a community supported, tree huggy vibe. I’ve caught a couple of acts that were famous back in the day and still touring. An interesting place to see a show.

Blue – small place for folk, jazz, Irish music. If that’s the music you’re into then check this place out.

SPACE – artsy, often weird, invariably interesting. It’s more of an experimental arts place that puts on bands. Worth keeping an eye on to see what’s happening.

Maine State Pier – summer pop-up venue on a pier, often well known bands.

Thompson’s Point – outdoor venue featuring national bands (some I’ve even heard of). The only one of these venues you can’t walk to from downtown. There again it’s 5 minutes in the car and it’s right next to Bissell Brothers, so probably a wash. They often have ‘Summer Sunsets’ at weekends with local bands playing and a bunch of food trucks. A nice place to relax but the actual sunset isn’t all that spectacular.

Music Cruises – There is nothing better than music on a boat. A great day out as long as you can find a band worth watching. Casablanca Cruises and Casco Bay Ferries both run music cruises in the summer.

I’m sure there are a few more music venues I can’t think of. Grab the latest Portland Phoenix (free weekly paper or website) which has a list of events. Don’t bother with Up Portland. It’s a free weekly but it’s written by someone’s cat.

Grateful Dead Bands

Yeah, it gets it’s own section because I love the Dead!

My favorite Dead band is The Maine Dead Project. You’ll often catch them at the Portland House of Music (see above). Historically they have a summer and winter residency on Wednesday nights which draws all the the local deadheads. They also play outdoors at Slab (see above) which is a great outside to watch them. Before Covid a couple of the members known as the Workingman’s Dead played acoustics sets outside of the House of Music in the late afternoon. I loved this but no word if it’s returning. Anything featuring Tom Faunce is worth checking out. Update: MDP are no more. Every Wednesday night is Barely Dead. Still pretty good though.

There is a pub band called Band Beyond Description that use to play every Tuesday night at Gritty’s. Well worth a visit especially as it’s free. Again no word that they are returning post-Covid. They also turn up at the Portland Lobster Company from time to time.

Not quite Dead but close – Portland has its own Phish tribute band, Pardon Me Doug who I really like. They play the House of Music and a few other local venues.

Marijuana

The devil’s lettuce. Or is it the devil’s cabbage? I can never remember. It doesn’t matter because it’s legal in Maine and dispensaries have sprouted up all over the city. In fact you can hardly go more than a couple of blocks without bumping into one. They are all pretty much the same with the boutique espresso cafe vibe – no spit and sawdust places yet. It’s hard to recommend one above the rest, but I will anyway. I like Cannabis Cured in Monument Square. It’s no different from any of the others but their prices seem more reasonable.

Most of the dispensaries are for recreational use (aimed at us regular people) but there are a few that are for medical sales only. If you wonder into one of these and you don’t have a Maine medical card then act snooty and mince out with a haughty demeanor. You’ll find a recreational place within a block or two.

updated 07/23/2024